Wave Induced Vertical Pore Pressure Gradients at Sandy Beaches

Abstract

Predicting sediment transport at sandy beaches is a significant challenge in civil engineering owing to the variability in hydrodynamic, morphological, and geotechnical properties within a site and across multiple sites. Additionally, there are difficulties in measuring in-situ properties, and challenges in identifying and quantifying the different relevant driving and resisting forces. These challenges are further exacerbated in the intertidal zone where the addition of infiltration-exfiltration, wave run-up and run-down, bore collapse, cyclic emergence and submergence of sediments, interactions between standing waves and incident bores, and other processes must be considered. Among these many processes, pore pressure gradients within sandy beach sediments affect sediment transport by reducing the sediment's effective stress to zero (this process is called liquefaction). Despite the known importance of these pressure gradients with respect to sediment transport, there has been little field evidence of the role that these pore pressure gradients have on sediment transport, how they relate to the hydrodynamic properties, and their inclusion into predictive sediment transport equations. This study is based on field measurements of hydrodynamic and geotechnical properties, as well as pore pressure gradients during storm and non-storm conditions at sandy beaches in the intertidal zone. From the analysis of these field measurements, it was found that (1) liquefying pressure gradients are likely to develop in sediments that are rapidly inundated during storm conditions; (2) the magnitude of pore pressure gradients is related to the asymmetry of the pressure gradient and can occur with shoreward-directed near bed velocities; and (3) during non-storm conditions, pressure gradients that often do not exceed liquefaction criteria occurred more (less) frequently during a time period where erosion occurred in large (small) quantities, indicating that small non-liquefying pore pressure gradients may facilitate sediment transport. The results of this study demonstrate that current methods of scour calculations must include effects of pore pressure gradients to reduce error. Additionally, from this work it was found that sediment transport can be directed shoreward under momentary liquefaction. Finally, the results of this study show that sediment pore pressure gradients are related to wave skewness, spatial group steepness, and temporal group steepness which may aid modelling of pore pressure gradients.