The effects of shoulder position on four sleeve/bodice structures

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Virginia Tech


Investigated in this research was the effect of different shoulder positions on different sleeve/bodice structures. Since a sleeve/bodice may have numerous variations and design details incorporated into the structure, this research concentrated on the set-in sleeve, kimono sleeve, raglan sleeve, and kimono sleeve with gusset. The variables used to determine the reaction of the different structures to different shoulder positions were garment slippage away from the wrist, the waist, the center back/waistline positions, and the angle formed by the center back/waistline intersection.

A Factorial ANOVA was used to test for significant differences between the sleeve/bodice structures and shoulder positions. A Tukey's pairwise comparison was used to determined the difference between the slippage at each shoulder position and each sleeve/bodice structure compared with each of the others. Regression equations were fit as linear, quadratic and their interactions with each sleeve/bodice structure.

Based on the theoretical framework, the amount and location of the slippage found in the statistical analyses was not necessarily those predicted. From the analyses, it was determined that when comparing the slippage at the wrist, waist, center back/waistline location and the center/back angle as a whole, general trends which occurred in the data were that the set-in sleeve consistently exhibited the greatest amount of slippage and the kimono sleeve exhibited the least. From the plots of the regression coefficients, the amount of slippage illustrated for the raglan sleeve was of similar slope to that of the set-in sleeve, whereas the kimono sleeve with gusset was more closely related to the slippage of the kimono sleeve.

The results of this study provide information that other clothing designers may find useful when developing sleeve/bodice structures based on specific shoulder positions. From known shoulder positions, a designer may determine which sleeve/bodice structure would exhibit the least or most garment slippage, or be able to predict the amount of garment slippage for a specific structure.