The purpose of this study was to develop an instrument to be utilized in dating and identifying extant handbags between 1855 and 1910. The objectives were, first, to develop a tool to aid the researcher in examining the handbags found; and second, to develop the instrument.

Using content analysis, a number of primary source references focusing on women, fashion, and needlework were examined. Following the content analysis, seriation was used to organize the data for analysis and interpretation.

From the histograms provided by the seriation, the Authentication instrument was developed. ln the first part, the Style Timeline, the information necessary to identify a handbag and assign a general date is supplied. Five styles of handbags were recognized: chatelaine bags and aumonieres; miser's purses; pocketbooks; chatelaine, neck and finger purses; and, wristbags. The second part of the instrument, the Style Analyses, then provides detailed discussions of each style allowing more specific dates to be established. These analyses also include descriptive material such as what the bag may have cost, or an etiquette surrounding its use.

From the study, it became apparent that handbags were effected most profoundly by two factors: dress styles and the growing independence of women. Furthermore, these bags were also influenced by changes in commerce, industry, foreign trade, and economic prosperity of the country.

Each new decade brought with it new beliefs, fashions, and tastes influenced by the social, economic, and political events of the time. Therefore, as ideas of what was fashionable and what was not changed with the times, so did the handbag.